mRGBLED Assembly -- step by step

Overview
The mRGBLED controller is very easy to build project.  However, you do need experience with soldering.  On average, you should be able to assemble the kit, once all the tools are ready and laid out, in about 10 minutes or less.

Warnings
A few important caveats you should be aware of:
  1. Use a LOW wattage iron -- 15 or 20 watts max with a fine tip -- the finer the better.   More than 15 watts and you'll risk cooking the chips.
  2. Use fine, rosin core solder.
  3. You should have solder braid/wick to clean up any mistakes
  4. Insure you and your workspace are grounded and don't remove chips from the packaging until you are at the point you need to install them
Parts List
There is a complete list of parts needed for the mRGBLED controller at the end of the document.  Either scroll down or click here.

Tools you will need
Step By Step
(you can click on any picture to make it larger)

NOTE: Pictures are not quite ready yet -- I'll upload them soon.  However, the instructions should work just fine.

Layout all your tools and the kit on a clean surface.  Since some parts are very tiny and easy to get mixed in with any debris, I recommend the cleaner and more open the better.

Empty out the kit and carefully check to make sure you have all the parts.  Your part list should include:
  • 1 mRGBLED Driver PC Board
  • 16 & 18 pin DIP socket (in packaging)
  • 1 MAX232 and 1 PIC 16LF87 chips (in packaging)
  • 1 LM7805 5 Volt regulator (optional)
  • 3 3 pin jumper posts
  • 3 jumpers
  • 1 RED LED
  • 1 100 ohm resistor
  • 2 2-position terminal blocks
  • 1 9-position terminal block
  • 2 .01uf capacitors




Install the DIP sockets first.  Insure the notches in the sockets face the left ofthe board (where the 9 terminal block will go).  Turn the board over and bend the pins at each of the 4 corners for each socket, keeping the socket pressed flush to the PCB.  Now solder the socket in place.

Install the RED LED and the 100ohm resistor.  The LED will have a flat side (usually where the shorter pin is) -- make sure that matches the silkscreen LED graphic to insure the correct polarity.  The leads for the resistor should be folded down tight along the side of the resistor.  Insert them, solder them, insuring the stay flush to the board and clip their leads.

Next, install the two capacitors.  These are non-polarized, so you really can't get it wrong.  Again, be sure they are flush against the board before and while you solder them in.  Clip their leads.

If you are going to use the LM7805 regulator, install a 2 pin screw terminal into the space marked UNREG.  If you are not installing a regulator, put the 2 pin terminal block into the holes around the +5 sign. Be sure the  screw holes face out and it stays flush as you solder it. 

Install the RS232 2-pin terminal block on the lower right side of the board.  Be sure the screw holes face out and ther terminal block stays flush while it's being soldered in.

Install the three, 3-pin headers (for the jumpers) and solder them.  Be careful they are flush to the board when being soldered.

Install the 9-pin terminal block on the left side of the board.  Be sure the screw holes face out and the terminal block stays flush to the board while being soldered.

If you are going to be using a voltage regulator (and you installed the power terminal block near the center of the board where the word UNREG appears), install the regulator now.  The metal tab side of the regulator should be facing the IC sockets (there is a "thick" line on the PC board showing where the metal tab side should be).  You may have to form the leads a bit to get it in as low as it can go.  Solder it and clip the excess leads.

Congratulations -- you are done!   Take a moment to look at your handiwork.  Check for solder bridges.  There should be no globs of solder, just a nice shiny "tented" coating of solder over each connection.

Install the PIC chip and the MAX232 chip.  Be careful not to touch their pins.  Also, make sure the notches in the chips are aligned with the notches in the sockets -- all notches should point left (toward the 9-pin terminal block).  You have have to gently compress the pins on the chips to get them to go into the sockets -- be very careful!

Now time to try things out.  With no LEDs hooked up, hook up either a 5 volt power supply (to the +5 terminal) or any 7.5 volt to 12 volt supply to the UNREG terminal block.  Check the PIC chip to see if it's getting at all warm -- if so, cut the power and check -- you probably have the chip in backwards (and you may have fried it).

Now hook the RS232 lines up to a PC.  The GND line should go to pin 5 of a female DB9 serial connector, the RX line to pin 3.
Install the jumpers for the baudrate you'd prefer
You will need to set the baudrate on the board to match your hosts speed.  The baudrate is set witht he 3 jumpers on the lower left side of the board and the values are lset per the image to the left (click for larger one).  Do be aware that 57600 baud is slightly error prone as the oscillator in the chip isn't an even multiple of the needed baudrate.  It'll usually work, but the error is like 3% from standard, so for some systems, no deal.

Also, the maximum sustained baud rate the controller can handle is 19200 (though that can slow a bit if there are commands with lots of animation color manipulation).  At 38400, the best bet is to insert a 1ms delay between each command (at which point the board can generally keep up). 

Finally, keep in mind that the lower the baudrate, the longer the run of wire can be.  High baudrates and long wire runs often don't work (or don't work reliably).  So if you've got a major run, consider a more conservative baudrate.
Next, hook up a test LED.  Use a common anode LED to make things simple.  You will have to figure out the resistors.  If you are using one of the SuperBright LEDs, the green and blue colors should have 67ohm resistors and the red leg should be 150ohm.  Hook the anode to the +5 volts on the board (if you are using a regulator, attach it to the terminal marked +5 which will provide a regulated supply.  Use the R/G/B connections at the bottom of the 9 pin terminal block -- that will be LED #0

When you power up the LED, the LED should briefly flash white and then start cycling through colors (that is the built-in self test).  If there is no light at all, check the PIC and insure it's installed correctly. 

Then, connect the RS232/DB9 to your computer and run the jRGBLED configurator program.  Check the File->Properties to make sure the correct serial port and speed is selected.  The go to the Board menu and pick Clear Board.  When you clear it, the LED should go off.

Now, select LED 0 and type in a color of FF0000, insure the "Led ON" is checked and press Upload LED.  The LED should light up red.  Then try 00FF00 and the LED should light up green.  Finally, try 0000FF and the LED should light up blue.  If the colors do not match that sequence, check your wiring to your LED -- you may have swapped some wires.


If you have any questions or problems, please ask on the RGBLED forum.  Please DO NOT SEND EMAIL to me.  Any support email I receive will be replied to with a form letter asking you to post the question on the forum.  The Forum allows multiple people to help answer questions and acts as a repository of knowledge that future builders can consult.


Parts List

Qty Description Manufacturer Part Num Ordered from
Mandatory parts
1 Microchip 16LF87 OR 16F87 (or 88)
Microchip PIC16LF87-I/P-ND Digikey
1 18 Pin DIP socket for PIC Anyone 571-26403594 Mouser
1 MAX232 RS232 interface chip MAXIM, Texas Insturments, others 595-MAX232N Mouser
1 16 Pin DIP socket for MAX232 Anyone 571-26403584 Mouser
2
.1uf radial cermaic capacitor Anyone, 50 volts is fine 80-C323C104K5R Mouser
1 100 ohm 1/4 watt resistor
optional if you don't want an error LED indicator
Anyone 660-CF1/4L101J Mouser
1 5mm RED LED
Optional if you don't want an error LED indicator
Anyone SSL-LX5093LID Mouser
3
Jumper pins to configure board (.100" pitch)
optional if you want to solder permanent settings in
Anyone 2340-6111TG
This may come as one long strip you break apart into seperate 3 pin jumper pins/headers
Mouser
3
Jumper plugs to configure board
optional if you want to solder permanent settings in
Anyone 929952-10 Mouser
2
2 Terminal screw blocks for connecting power (2.54mm pitch, 90 degree) and RS232
Optional if you want to solder permanent power and serial wires in
Phoenix Contact 651-1725656 Mouser
1
9 terminal screw block for attaching LEDs (2.54mm pitch, 90 degree)
Optional if you want to solder the LED wires permanentlyu to the board
Phoenix Contact 651-1725724 Mouser


Last Updated June 12, 2006